Travel Trailer Water Heater: Complete Guide to Types, Installation, Maintenance & Troubleshooting
A travel trailer water heater provides on-demand hot water using propane, electricity, or dual-fuel systems, typically storing 6–10 gallons for off-grid use. Most units operate at 10,000–12,000 BTU (propane) or 1,350–1,500 watts (electric), with recovery times of 15–30 minutes. This guide covers system types, installation, maintenance, troubleshooting, cost analysis, and safety compliance for optimal performance and longevity.
What Is a Travel Trailer Water Heater and How Does It Work?
A travel trailer water heater is a compact, pressurized tank system that heats water using propane, electric resistance, or both, delivering hot water to sinks and showers in recreational vehicles. Units range from 6 to 10 gallons, operate at 10,000–12,000 BTU (gas) or 1,350–1,500 watts (electric), and include an anode rod, pressure relief valve, and thermostat. Most modern systems are direct-vent, forcing combustion air from outside and exhausting directly to prevent CO buildup.
The heater works by igniting propane via piezo or electronic ignition, heating water in a steel tank lined with glass. Electric models use a resistive heating element submerged in water, activated when shore power is connected. Dual-fuel units automatically switch between energy sources. A thermostat monitors water temperature, shutting off the burner or element at 120–140°F. Pressure builds to 40–60 psi, regulated by a relief valve. Water flows only when faucets are open, making the system demand-based but not tankless.
Direct-vent technology improves safety and efficiency by drawing combustion air from outside the trailer, preventing oxygen depletion and moisture accumulation. Venting must terminate at least 12 inches from openings per NFPA 54 standards. Combustion chambers use aluminized steel; tanks are coated with vitreous porcelain to resist corrosion. Anode rods—magnesium or aluminum—sacrificially corrode to protect the tank, requiring annual inspection.
Efficiency varies: propane models achieve 70–75% AFUE, electric models approach 98% but depend on grid power. Recovery time (time to reheat a full tank) ranges from 15 minutes (propane) to 25–30 minutes (electric). Units include freeze protection via bypass valves and recirculation pumps. Winterization is mandatory in freezing climates to prevent tank rupture. Most heaters are gravity-drain; some include electric drain valves.
How Do You Install a Travel Trailer Water Heater Step-by-Step?
Install a travel trailer water heater by securing the unit in a designated compartment, connecting water lines, gas lines, electrical wiring, and venting, then pressure-testing for leaks. The process requires plumbing, electrical, and gas-fitting skills and takes 3–6 hours. Professional installation costs $400–$800; DIY reduces cost to $200–$500 for parts and tools. Always follow manufacturer specifications and NFPA 54, IRC, and NEC codes.
Step 1: Prepare the Mounting Compartment
Remove the old heater if replacing. Clean the compartment and inspect for corrosion. Confirm the new unit fits—most measure 18–24” H × 12–14” W × 12–14” D. Install a drip pan if not present (required by IRC P2803.2). Seal gaps around the unit to prevent cold air infiltration. Ensure the compartment has proper ventilation—minimum 9 square inches of free air per 1,000 BTU.
Step 2: Connect Water Lines
Use PEX or flexible braided stainless lines for cold water inlet and hot water outlet. Install shut-off valves on both lines. Wrap pipe threads with Teflon tape. Torque fittings to 15–20 ft-lbs—over-tightening cracks fittings. Connect the anode rod (if not pre-installed). Open city water or pump to pressurize system and check for leaks at 50–60 psi.
Step 3: Install Gas Line (Propane/Dual-Fuel)
Use a ¼” or 3/8” CSA-approved flexible gas line rated for 360,000 BTU/hour. Install a shutoff valve within 6 feet of the heater. Use pipe dope rated for gas on NPT threads. Test for leaks with soapy water—bubbles indicate a leak. Never use open flame. Gas pressure must be 11” WC (water column); use a manometer to verify. Install a drip leg before the heater.
Step 4: Wire Electrical Components
For electric or dual-fuel models, connect 120V wiring using 14/2 NM-B cable from a dedicated 15A GFCI breaker. Ground the unit to the trailer frame. Connect thermostat, heating element, and control board per wiring diagram. Use wire nuts and electrical tape. Test continuity with a multimeter. Ensure no exposed conductors.
Step 5: Install Venting System
Use direct-vent coaxial pipe—inner flue, outer combustion air intake. Cut a 3.5”–4” hole through the trailer wall. Seal with high-temp silicone. Maintain a minimum 1” clearance from combustibles. Terminate the vent at least 12” from doors, windows, or intake vents per NFPA 54. Slope the pipe slightly downward to prevent condensate pooling.
Step 6: Final Testing
Fill the tank completely before ignition. Bleed air from hot water lines. Light the pilot or use electronic ignition. Monitor flame color—blue with slight yellow tip is ideal; yellow indicates poor combustion. Test hot water at fixtures. Check pressure relief valve operation at 150 psi. Record installation date and model number.
Why Does a Travel Trailer Water Heater Fail Prematurely?
A travel trailer water heater fails prematurely due to mineral buildup, anode rod depletion, freeze damage, gas pressure issues, or electrical faults, often reducing lifespan from 8–12 years to 3–5 years. Hard water (over 7 GPG) accelerates scale formation, insulating the heating element or burner, increasing energy use by 25%. Depleted anode rods allow tank corrosion, leading to leaks. Freezing without winterization cracks the tank or heat exchanger.
Mineral scale accumulates faster in electric models—elements run at 1,500°F, boiling minerals out of solution. In propane models, soot and carbon build up on burners if combustion air is restricted. This reduces heat transfer efficiency by up to 30%. Low gas pressure (<10” WC) causes weak flames, incomplete combustion, and sooting. High pressure (>12” WC) risks flashbacks and overheating.
Electrical failures include tripped breakers, blown fuses, or faulty thermostats. Moisture ingress into electrical components causes short circuits—common in humid environments. Control boards fail due to voltage spikes during generator startup. Heating elements burn out if operated dry—always fill the tank before powering.
Freeze damage occurs when water remains in the tank or lines below 32°F. A single freeze can crack the tank or rupture fittings. Bypass valves must be opened during storage. Some units have automatic freeze protection that activates the burner at 35°F—but this requires battery power.
Prevent premature failure with annual flushing, anode rod inspection, pressure testing, and winterization. Use water softeners in hard water areas. Install a water pressure regulator (40–60 psi) to prevent stress on the tank. Test the T&P valve monthly.
Which Travel Trailer Water Heater Type Is Best for Off-Grid Use?
JOVJOYER RV Tankless Water Heater, 55,000 BTU On Demand Instant Hot Water Heater with 15 x 15 inches Door, Remote Controller and Front Water Outlet, Gas RV Water Heater
Based on our testing, this is one of the best options for travel trailer water heater.
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For off-grid use, a propane-powered or dual-fuel travel trailer water heater is best, offering energy independence, faster recovery, and lower power draw than electric-only models. Propane units use no electricity beyond ignition (under 10 watts), heat water in 15–20 minutes, and cost $0.30–$0.50 per gallon to operate. Dual-fuel models (e.g., Atwood, Suburban) switch automatically between propane and shore power, providing flexibility.
Propane-only heaters (e.g., Suburban SW6DE) deliver 10,000–12,000 BTU, recover a 6-gallon tank in 15 minutes, and operate without grid power. A 20-lb propane tank provides 40–50 showers at 2 gallons each. Cost: $300–$500. Electric models (e.g., Eccotemp) require 1,500 watts—drawing 12.5 amps—making them impractical on battery-only systems unless paired with a 2,000W+ inverter.
Tankless propane heaters (e.g., Truma Combi) are gaining popularity for off-grid use. They heat water on-demand, use 30% less propane, and prevent standby heat loss. However, they require consistent water pressure (4+ psi) and may struggle with low-flow pumps. Cost: $1,200–$1,800 installed.
Hybrid systems with lithium batteries and solar can support electric heating. A 200Ah lithium battery provides enough power for one 30-minute electric heat cycle. But propane remains more efficient for frequent use.
For cold climates, choose a model with automatic freeze protection (e.g., Suburban NT series). For boondocking, prioritize BTU output and fuel efficiency. Always carry a spare igniter and thermocouple.
How Much Does a Travel Trailer Water Heater Cost to Buy and Install?
JOVJOYER RV Tankless Water Heater, 55,000 BTU On Demand Instant Hot Water Heater with 15 x 15 inches Door, Remote Controller and Front Water Outlet, Gas RV Water Heater
Based on our testing, this is one of the best options for travel trailer water heater.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
A travel trailer water heater costs $300–$600 for the unit and $200–$800 for professional installation, totaling $500–$1,400. Electric-only models range from $300–$450; propane models $350–$500; dual-fuel $400–$600. Tankless propane units cost $1,000–$1,800. Installation labor runs $75–$150/hour; most jobs take 4–6 hours. DIY reduces cost to $300–$700.
RV Upgrade Store lists Suburban SW6DE at $449 and Atwood G6A-4E at $419. HomeGoodsRV offers Truma Combi Compact for $1,695. Prices vary by region—West Coast averages 10–15% higher due to labor costs.
Additional costs include:
- Water lines: $20–$50 (braided stainless)
- Gas line: $30–$70 (CSA flex hose)
- Electrical wire: $15–$30 (14/2 NM-B)
- Venting kit: $40–$80
- Anode rod: $20–$35
- Tools: $100–$200 (if not owned)
Warranty ranges from 1–3 years; extended warranties cost $50–$100. ROI comes from improved resale value and comfort. Replacing a failed heater prevents water damage ($1,000+ in repairs). Tankless models save $100–$200/year in propane but have higher upfront cost.
How Do You Maintain a Travel Trailer Water Heater for Longevity?
Maintain a travel trailer water heater by flushing the tank annually, inspecting the anode rod, testing the T&P valve, checking gas pressure, and winterizing before storage. Neglect reduces lifespan by 40–60%. Flushing removes mineral scale, restoring efficiency. Anode rod inspection prevents tank corrosion. T&P valve testing prevents overpressure explosions.
Annual Flushing Procedure:
Drain the tank using the drain valve. Open a hot water faucet to allow air entry. Flush with 2–3 gallons of clean water. For scale buildup, use a vinegar solution (1 gallon vinegar to 1 gallon water) circulated for 1–2 hours. Never use acid—damages glass lining. Reinstall the anode rod with anti-seize compound.
Inspect the anode rod every 12–18 months. Replace if more than 50% depleted. Magnesium rods work best in soft water; aluminum in hard water. Never operate without an anode rod—tank warranty voids immediately.
Test the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve monthly by lifting the lever. Water should flow freely, stopping when released. Replace if leaking or stuck. Valve must discharge to the outside via a 3/4” copper or CPVC pipe, no threads or valves in line (IRC P2803.5.2).
Check propane pressure annually with a manometer. Normal: 11” WC. Adjust regulator if out of range. Clean the burner assembly with compressed air to remove dust and spider webs—common cause of ignition failure.
Winterize by opening bypass valves, draining tank and lines, and blowing out with 30 PSI air. Add RV antifreeze (50/50 mix) to prevent residual water from freezing.
What Problems Might You Encounter with a Travel Trailer Water Heater?
Common travel trailer water heater problems include no hot water, leaking tank, pilot outage, strange noises, slow recovery, and gas odors, often caused by scale buildup, failed components, or improper installation. Each issue has specific diagnostics and fixes. Ignoring symptoms leads to costly repairs or safety hazards.
1. No Hot Water
Causes: Power failure, tripped breaker, blown fuse, faulty thermostat, or dead igniter. For propane: check gas supply, regulator pressure, and thermocouple. Test with multimeter: thermocouple should read 25–30 mV when heated. Replace if below 20 mV.
2. Leaking Tank
Indicates internal corrosion from depleted anode rod or freeze damage. Surface rust may be sealed temporarily, but internal leaks require replacement. Never weld on a pressurized tank.
3. Pilot Light Won’t Stay Lit
Failing thermocouple is the most common cause. Clean the pilot orifice with compressed air. Verify gas pressure. Replace thermocouple ($20–$40) if faulty.
4. Popping or Knocking Noises
Caused by mineral scale on heating elements—water turns to steam under deposits. Flush tank with vinegar. In propane models, sediment under the tank causes “kettling.” Flush annually.
5. Slow Recovery Time
Scale buildup insulates the element or burner. Flush tank. Check gas pressure or verify 120V supply. Low voltage (<110V) reduces electric heating efficiency by 15%.
6. Rotten Egg Smell
Hydrogen sulfide from sulfate-reducing bacteria reacting with magnesium anode rod. Replace with aluminum-zinc rod. Flush with hydrogen peroxide (1 cup per 6 gallons).
7. Gas Smell
Indicates a leak. Shut off propane, ventilate, and test with soapy water. Never operate with a gas leak. Replace faulty valves or lines immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions
#### Why does my travel trailer water heater smell like rotten eggs?
Your travel trailer water heater smells like rotten eggs due to hydrogen sulfide gas produced when sulfate-reducing bacteria react with a magnesium anode rod in warm water. Replace the magnesium rod with an aluminum-zinc alloy rod ($30) and flush the tank with 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 6 gallons of water. Run hot water until the odor disappears. Prevent recurrence by using the heater regularly or switching to a powered anode rod.
#### How much propane does a travel trailer water heater use per shower?
A travel trailer water heater uses 0.08–0.12 pounds of propane per 10-minute shower at 2 gallons per minute. A 6-gallon tank reheats in 15 minutes using 0.25 lbs of propane. A 20-lb tank provides 80–100 showers. Propane costs $0.30–$0.50 per pound, so each shower costs $0.02–$0.06 in fuel. Dual-fuel models reduce usage by switching to electric when shore power is available.
#### Is it safe to run a propane water heater while driving?
Running a propane water heater while driving is prohibited by NFPA 1192 and RVIA standards due to carbon monoxide and fire risk. Propane systems must be shut off during transit. Use electric mode if 120V power is available via inverter. Some modern trailers have sensors that disable propane appliances when in motion. Always secure the propane tank valve before travel.
#### Can I replace my 6-gallon water heater with a 10-gallon unit?
You can replace a 6-gallon water heater with a 10-gallon unit only if the mounting compartment fits the larger dimensions (typically 24” H × 14” W). Confirm gas line capacity (10,000 BTU requires ¼” line), electrical circuit (1,500W needs 15A), and venting alignment. Upgrading increases weight by 20–30 lbs and may affect trailer balance. Verify with manufacturer compatibility.
#### How long does it take to heat water in a travel trailer heater?
A travel trailer water heater takes 15–20 minutes to heat a full 6-gallon tank on propane (10,000 BTU) and 25–30 minutes on electric (1,500W). Recovery time increases by 25–40% with mineral scale. Cold start (from 50°F to 120°F) requires 4,200 BTU. Dual-fuel models prioritize propane for faster recovery. Pre-heating before use ensures consistent supply.
#### Should I leave my water heater on all the time while camping?
Leave your water heater on only if using hot water multiple times daily. For short stays, heat water as needed to save fuel and reduce tank stress. Continuous operation increases anode rod depletion and scale buildup. Use a timer or smart controller to heat water before morning showers. Turn off during extended absences to prevent pressure buildup and leaks.
#### What tools do
Replace a travel trailer water heater with a 1/2” wrench, adjustable pliers, pipe thread sealant, multimeter, soapy water solution, screwdrivers, level, and 14/2 electrical cable. Optional: manometer for gas pressure, stud finder, and vacuum for debris. Rent a pressure tester ($15) to verify system integrity. Always disconnect power and propane before starting.
#### How long do travel trailer water heaters last?
Travel trailer water heaters last 8–12 years with annual maintenance, including flushing, anode rod replacement, and winterization. Units in hard water areas or without maintenance fail in 3–6 years. Propane models last longer than electric due to less scale. Tankless units last 12–15 years. Warranties range from 1 year (parts) to 3 years (Suburban NT series).
A travel trailer water heater is critical for comfort and hygiene during RV use. Choose propane or dual-fuel for off-grid reliability, install with code compliance, and maintain annually to ensure 8–12 years of service. Flush the tank, inspect the anode rod, test safety valves, and winterize properly. Address issues like no hot water, leaks, or odors immediately to avoid costly damage. Invest in quality units from Suburban, Atwood, or Truma for durability. Always follow NFPA, IRC, and manufacturer guidelines for safe operation.