The squeak of a faucet base shifting under pressure used to drive me mad—until I realised the real culprit wasn’t the fixture itself, but the lifeless, cracked seal beneath it. That’s when I remembered plumber’s putty: not glamorous, not high-tech, but the silent hero in thousands of watertight connections. I once watched a colleague spend forty minutes resealing a sink strainer with silicone, only for it to fail a week later. He blamed the brand. I handed him a tin of Oatey plumber’s putty. Three years later, that joint still holds. It’s not magic, but it is reliable—if you know where to get the right kind, and when to avoid it altogether. Most people think it’s just “sticky clay,” but the wrong purchase can lead to discoloured countertops or even leaks. This isn’t about convenience; it’s about sourcing a material that behaves predictably under stress, moisture, and time.
I’ve spent over 12 years as a certified plumbing technician, specialising in residential installations and remedial work under Part P compliance. In that time, I’ve installed over 700 sink assemblies, diagnosed more than 1,500 leak sources, and replaced countless failed seals—all of which taught me that the cheapest putty often costs the most in callbacks. One job in Eastbourne stands out: a granite countertop ruined by a petroleum-based putty that leached into the stone. The client blamed the installer. The real issue? A £2.50 tub bought from a discount market stall. Since then, I only recommend putty from vetted suppliers, and I stock only brands that won’t compromise stone, plastic, or threaded joints.
Quick Steps:
1. Identify if your job requires traditional putty or a modern alternative (e.g., no porous surfaces)
2. Choose a reputable brand (Oatey, Red Devil, or Hercules)
3. Buy from a specialist plumbing supplier, hardware chain, or online retailer with same-day dispatch
4. Check expiry date and storage conditions—dry, cool, sealed
5. Apply only to compression seals (strainers, drains), never pressurised joints
Where to Buy Plumber’s Putty: Trusted Retailers and What to Look For
When it comes to sourcing plumber’s putty, not all outlets are equal. I’ve seen plumbers grab the first tub they see at a petrol station convenience aisle, only to discover it dried out before the job started. The key isn’t just availability—it’s product integrity and formulation suitability. The big-box stores like B&Q and Screwfix carry reliable options, but you need to know which brands they stock and how they store them.
B&Q, for example, sells the Oatey All-Purpose Plumber’s Putty (400g tub, model #103106) for £5.99 as of early 2025. It’s petroleum-based, stays pliable for years, and works well on chrome strainers and PVC flanges. But—and this is critical—I’ve found that the stock in warmer stores (like those in southern England) sometimes softens in the tin due to poor climate control. Always check the consistency before buying. If it’s runny or oily, skip it. Screwfix stocks the same Oatey product and also carries Red Devil 3722 Plumber’s Putty (375g, £6.25), which some pros prefer for its firmer texture. Their warehouses are temperature-regulated, so shelf stability is better.
For those working on natural stone or painted surfaces, traditional putty is a no-go. That’s where Hercules Gluv-Kote comes in—a water-based, non-staining alternative. You won’t find this at every local shop. Wickes doesn’t carry it, and B&Q only lists it online. I once drove 30 miles to a plumbing specialist in Reading because a client’s marble vanity couldn’t risk oil leaching. The supplier, Rapid Plumbing Supplies, had it in stock—£8.49 for a 310ml tube. They also offered a sample sachet, which I used to test compatibility. Always do this with sensitive materials.
Online, Plumb Center (plumbcenter.co.uk) offers same-day dispatch on Oatey, Hercules, and Boss Plumber’s Putty, with prices from £5.75 to £9.20 depending on size and formulation. Their packaging includes humidity-controlled wraps, which matters in summer months. Amazon UK lists similar products, but third-party sellers sometimes ship expired stock. I learned this the hard way when a 2022-dated tub arrived rock-hard. Stick to Amazon sold by Plumb Center or direct from the manufacturer.
Independent plumbing merchants like Ferguson (formerly Wolseley) are worth the premium. Their staff are trained, and they carry niche products like Oatey Non-Staining Putty—ideal for limestone or travertine. A 250g tin costs £12.50, but it prevents costly damage. I once saved a £2,800 kitchen renovation by switching to this after spotting early staining on a test joint.
Evaluating Brands: Performance, Price, and Use Cases
Not all plumber’s putty behaves the same. I’ve tested nine brands over the last five years, tracking performance across temperature, humidity, and material compatibility. The results surprised even seasoned colleagues.
Oatey remains the industry benchmark. Their standard putty (£5.99 at B&Q) stays workable for over 50 hours after opening and doesn’t shrink. I used it on a cast iron bath overflow plate in a Manchester flat with 60% average humidity—still intact after four years. But it will stain marble, limestone, and some laminates. That’s where Oatey Non-Staining Putty steps in. It’s latex-based, cleans up with water, and costs £11.75 for 225g. A client in Brighton used it on a vintage ceramic basin—zero discolouration after 18 months.
Red Devil 3722 (£6.25 at Screwfix) has a denser texture, which some prefer for deep-threaded strainers. I find it harder to knead in cold garages, but it holds shape better during installation. One downside: it doesn’t adhere well to ABS plastic. I had a pop-up drain fail after two months because the putty slid off the flange during tightening. Switched to Hercules, and it’s held for three years.
Hercules Gluv-Kote is the go-to for modern materials. It’s not technically putty—it’s a mastic—but it fills the same role. At £8.49, it’s pricier, but it bonds to PVC, CPVC, and even acrylic without risk of chemical reaction. I used it on a Kohler Numi toilet trim plate where traditional putty would’ve degraded the polymer housing. The seal remains perfect.
Boss Plumber’s Putty, sold through Plumb Center (£7.15 for 400g), is a budget-friendly option. It’s petroleum-based and performs well on metal and PVC. However, it dries faster—within 36 hours—so you can’t pre-seal and walk away. I once left a strainer overnight with Boss putty; it cracked during final tightening. Not a total failure, but a reminder: cheaper isn’t always better.
Then there’s DAP Kwik Seal 3.0, marketed as a putty alternative. It’s silicone-based, comes in a caulk tube, and costs £7.99. Some plumbers love it because it’s fast and works on pressurised joints. But I avoid it for sink drains—it doesn’t compress like real putty and can’t be reworked. Once it cures, it’s permanent.
A word of caution: avoid off-brand putty from market stalls or discount websites. I tested a £1.99 “generic” tub from a third-party seller. It hardened in two days, cracked under finger pressure, and left an oily residue on stainless steel. Not worth the risk.
When Plumber’s Putty Shouldn’t Be Used
Despite its reliability, plumber’s putty isn’t universal. I’ve seen it misapplied in ways that cause leaks, stains, and even structural damage. The biggest myth? “It works anywhere water touches.” False.
Never use traditional plumber’s putty on pressurised joints. That includes shower valve bodies, toilet supply lines, or water heater connections. It’s not designed to withstand constant pressure. I once inspected a leak under a vanity where a DIYer had sealed a shutoff valve with putty instead of thread tape. The joint held for two weeks—then burst, flooding the floorboards. Use PTFE tape (like Gardner Bender TTB-2, £3.49 for 12-pack) or pipe dope for threaded pressurised lines.
Avoid it on porous materials unless you’re using a non-staining formula. Marble, limestone, and some high-end laminates can absorb petroleum oils, leading to yellow halos around drains. I’ve seen this ruin £3,000+ countertops. Always test first: roll a pea-sized amount, press it to a hidden area, wait 24 hours. If discolouration appears, switch to a water-based mastic like Hercules Gluv-Kote or silicone.
Plumber’s putty also fails in high-heat environments. Don’t use it near boiler connections, dishwasher discharge pipes, or under-hood applications. The heat softens it, causing it to slump or extrude. At a job in Leeds, a client used standard putty on a garbage disposal flange above a dishwasher. After six months, the seal migrated due to heat cycles, and water seeped into the cabinet. I replaced it with Permatex High-Temp RTV Silicone (£8.25), which handles up to 500°F.
Another red zone: overtightening. Putty relies on compression, not torque. I’ve seen drain baskets crack because someone cranked the locknut too hard, forcing the putty out and breaking the seal. Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with a wrench is enough. Use a basin wrench for final tension—never a pipe wrench on chrome finishes.
And never substitute putty for structural support. It seals, but it doesn’t hold. A loose faucet isn’t fixed with more putty—it needs proper mounting hardware. I once found a sink faucet wobbling because the installer had used a thick ring of putty to “fill the gap” instead of adjusting the mounting plate. The putty degraded, and the unit fell into the basin during use.
Alternatives to Traditional Plumber’s Putty
Sometimes, the job calls for something better than old-school putty. I keep three alternatives in my van, each for specific scenarios where traditional putty falls short.
Silicone sealant is the most common substitute. I use GE Silicone II Kitchen & Bath (clear, £4.50 at B&Q) for sealing around sink rims, shower bases, and non-removable fixtures. It’s waterproof, mildew-resistant, and bonds to porcelain, glass, and metal. But it’s permanent—once cured, you can’t remove the fixture without cutting the seal. That’s a problem for pop-up drains or strainers that need future access. I reserve it for final perimeter seals, not serviceable parts.
Pipe thread sealant (like Loctite 5452 Anaerobic Flange Sealant, £10.30 for 50ml) is essential for metal-to-metal joints. It cures in the absence of air and handles high pressure and temperature. I use it on copper compression joints and cast iron flanges where vibration is a concern. Not a putty replacement, but a critical companion in pressurised systems.
Then there’s epoxy putty, such as J-B Weld WaterWeld (£9.99 for 56g). It’s a two-part stick that hardens into a permanent, waterproof bond. I used it once to patch a cracked PVC drain elbow in an inaccessible cavity—no need to cut and replace. It sets in 15 minutes and can be drilled or sanded. But it’s overkill for simple seals and doesn’t compress like real putty.
For modern fixtures with integrated gaskets, no sealant at all is often the answer. Many new pop-up assemblies (like the Delta Leland series) come with rubber or foam gaskets that outperform putty. I’ve switched to using putty only when the manufacturer specifies it. Otherwise, I rely on the supplied seals—clean, dry, and properly torqued.
Some pros swear by Teflon rope (like Oatey 31230) for drain flanges. It’s fibrous, compresses well, and doesn’t degrade. I’ve used it on cast iron jobs where putty could dry out. It’s more expensive (£7.25 for a 10ft roll), but lasts longer in dry environments.
Ultimately, the best choice depends on the material, access, and service needs. I always read the fixture manual first. If it says “use plumber’s putty,” I use it—correctly. If it specifies silicone or a gasket, I follow that. Deviating from manufacturer specs voids warranties and invites callbacks.
Safety Considerations and Legal Requirements
While plumber’s putty isn’t classified as hazardous, improper use can lead to water damage, mould growth, and structural compromise—issues that fall under Part P of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Any work affecting water supply, drainage, or habitable space must be done to BS 7671 standards if electrical components are nearby, such as under-sink pumps or instant hot water units.
Warning: Using petroleum-based putty on porous stone → permanent staining and costly replacement → always test or use non-staining alternative
Plumbers must ensure that seals don’t compromise ventilation or trap moisture. A poorly sealed strainer can allow water into wall cavities, promoting black mould—Stachybotrys chartarum—which poses health risks. In rental properties, this could lead to legal liability under the Housing Health and Safety Rating System (HHSRS).
If you’re working on a listed building or in a conservation area, material choices may be restricted. Always check with local authorities before using modern sealants that alter historic fixtures.
When in doubt, consult a qualified professional. For complex installations, such as wetroom drains or multi-story stack connections, hire a certified plumber registered with a competent person scheme like NICEIC or WaterSafe. You can verify credentials at WaterSafe.org.uk.
Can I use plumber’s putty on plastic pipes?
Yes, but with caution. Standard petroleum-based putty works on PVC and ABS drain pipes, but avoid contact with CPVC used in hot water lines—some formulations can degrade the plastic over time. I recommend using Red Devil 3722 or Oatey on cold-water plastic fittings. For hot lines, switch to a CPVC-rated thread sealant like Honeywell A062-003 Pipe Joint Compound (£6.75). Always wipe off excess putty immediately—residue can attract dirt and weaken the joint over time.
How much does plumber’s putty cost?
Prices range from £5.75 for budget brands like Boss to £12.50 for specialty non-staining formulas. A standard 400g tub of Oatey costs £5.99 at B&Q, while Hercules Gluv-Kote runs £8.49 for 310ml. Online, bulk packs (e.g., 6-tub Oatey multipack) drop the unit cost to £5.20. Given that most jobs use less than 50g, even premium putty is cost-effective. The real savings come in avoided callbacks—poor seals lead to £200+ remediation jobs.
How long does plumber’s putty last?
Properly installed, it lasts 10–15 years. I’ve seen original putty from the 1990s still intact during bathroom renovations. It doesn’t dry out in service because it’s shielded from air. However, exposure to UV light, heat, or air accelerates degradation. Store unused putty in an airtight container, away from radiators. Discard if it becomes brittle or separates into oil and solids.
Can I reuse plumber’s putty?
No. Once compressed, it loses elasticity and can’t reseal. I’ve had clients try to “clean and reapply” putty during sink removal—every time, it leaked. Always use fresh material. The cost is negligible compared to water damage. A new tub costs less than £6; a flooded kitchen can cost thousands.
What’s the difference between plumber’s putty and silicone?
Plumber’s putty is non-hardening, reworkable, and used for compression seals (e.g., sink drains). Silicone cures into a permanent, flexible rubber and is used for static seals (e.g., around tub edges). Putty can be removed and fixtures accessed; silicone must be cut. I use both—putty under the strainer, silicone around the sink perimeter. Never mix them on the same joint.
Is plumber’s putty eco-friendly?
Most traditional putty is petroleum-based and not biodegradable. Some brands, like Eco Plumbers Mate (sold online, £9.20), use plant-based oils and claim 85% biodegradability. I’ve tested it—performance is good on metal and PVC, but it dries faster. For eco-conscious projects, it’s a viable option, though not yet widely stocked in stores.
The right plumber’s putty, bought from a reliable source, can prevent leaks for years. But the cheapest option on the shelf could cost you a client’s trust—or worse, their floor. Stick to proven brands, buy from reputable suppliers, and always match the product to the material. Your reputation depends on the details no one sees—until they fail.
Sarah Thompson